Repointing brick replaces deteriorated mortar in the joints between bricks, helping keep a wall weather-resistant and stable. With hand tools, the work is slower and more controlled than power-tool removal, but it is suitable for small repairs when the bricks and wall are sound and you use a compatible mortar.
Before starting, check why the mortar is failing and whether the wall needs a specialist. Repointing will not fix movement, water entry from a defective roof or drain, or damaged bricks. If the wall is bulging, badly cracked, leaning, or part of a historic building, get advice from a qualified mason or conservation professional. Identify the existing mortar as well: older soft brickwork can be damaged by a hard, cement-rich replacement. Match the mortar’s strength, composition, colour, and joint finish as closely as practical.
What You’ll Need
- Safety glasses, a suitable dust mask, sturdy gloves, and hearing protection if other noisy work is nearby.
- A narrow cold chisel or plugging chisel and a club hammer for careful mortar removal.
- A small pointing trowel, mortar hawk or mixing board, and a jointing tool that fits the existing joint.
- A stiff masonry brush, a soft brush, and a spray bottle or clean water source.
- A bucket, clean mixing container, and measuring container for consistent mortar batches.
- Mortar compatible with the bricks and original joint, plus clean water. For traditional soft brick, a lime-based mortar may be appropriate; seek advice if unsure.
- Drop cloths or ground protection, a stable work platform if needed, and breathable coverings to protect fresh work.
Do not use a ladder as a substitute for a stable work platform when you need both hands or must apply force. Keep people away from falling debris, and avoid working where dust can enter occupied rooms.
Step-by-Step
- Inspect the wall and choose a small test area. Look for loose, powdery, missing, or deeply eroded mortar, and note the joint shape and colour. Check nearby bricks for cracks, flaking faces, or looseness. Tap and probe gently; do not assume every discoloured joint needs replacement. If the damage is widespread or associated with movement, stop and get a professional assessment.
- Confirm the mortar before removing it. Existing mortar may be lime-based, cement-based, or a blend, and appearance alone does not reliably identify its composition. A mortar that is much harder than the brick can force moisture and frost damage into the brick instead of allowing the joint to weather. If you cannot confidently choose a compatible mix, ask a mason familiar with older masonry. Follow the mortar maker’s directions for mixing and curing.
- Protect the work area and prepare safely. Cover nearby surfaces and collect debris as you go. Put on eye protection, gloves, and a dust mask suited to the task. Work in good light, keep your hands clear of the chisel’s striking path, and secure the platform before reaching. Do not dry-sweep fine dust into the air.
- Remove failed mortar by hand. Set the chisel into the joint, not against the brick edge, and use controlled, light hammer blows. Work along the bed joints and vertical joints, removing only loose or deteriorated material. Aim to clear the joint to sound mortar and create a firm, reasonably even recess deep enough for the replacement to bond; the required depth depends on the joint and mortar system. Avoid cutting into the brick or widening the joint. If sound mortar is difficult to remove without damaging the brick, stop rather than force it.
- Clear dust and loose fragments. Brush the joints thoroughly with a stiff masonry brush, then use a softer brush for the brick faces. Remove all crumbs and dust from the recess; debris can weaken the bond. Check the joints again and take out any loose material revealed by brushing. Keep the debris contained, especially if the old coating or mortar may include hazardous material.
- Dampen the joints appropriately. Lightly mist the recess and surrounding brick so the masonry does not draw moisture from fresh mortar too quickly. The joint should be evenly damp, not flooded or holding standing water. Very dry, absorbent brick may need more careful pre-wetting, while cool or already damp masonry may need less. Follow the mortar instructions and do not repoint during conditions that risk freezing, intense heat, or rapid drying.
- Mix a manageable batch. Use clean tools and the proportions and mixing method specified for the chosen mortar. Add water gradually until the mortar holds together and can be pressed into a joint without slumping. Do not make it soupy, and do not add extra water later to revive mortar that has started to set. Mix only what you can place within the stated working time.
- Pack mortar firmly into the joint. Load a small amount onto the pointing trowel or hawk. Press it into the back of the recess with the pointing tool, working in thin layers if the joint is deep. Compact each layer so there are no hollow pockets, then fill the joint slightly proud of the brick face. Work steadily and keep mortar off the brick as much as possible. For a large area, finish a manageable section at a time.
- Shape the joint at the right stage. When the mortar has firmed enough to resist a light touch without smearing, tool it to match the original profile. The timing varies with mortar, weather, and brick suction, so check frequently rather than relying on a fixed wait. A jointing tool can compress the surface and create a consistent finish. Do not tool mortar that is wet and pasty, or wait until it has become hard to shape.
- Clean the brick faces and protect the work. Brush away crumbs and small smears once the mortar is firm enough not to be pulled from the joint. Avoid washing fresh mortar across the brick with a wet sponge, which can stain the surface and weaken the joint face. Protect the work from direct sun, wind, heavy rain, and frost using a breathable cover that does not touch or rub the joints. Maintain protection and moisture as directed for the mortar, then inspect for gaps or loose sections after it has cured.
Common Mistakes
- Using mortar that is too hard. A strong, dense mix can damage softer brick. Compatibility matters more than choosing the strongest mix available.
- Chiselling against the brick. A slipped blow can chip the arris or face. Use controlled strikes and stop if the joint cannot be cleared safely by hand.
- Leaving dust or loose mortar behind. Fresh mortar cannot bond reliably to a dusty, crumbly recess. Brush and inspect before dampening.
- Filling only the surface. A thin smear over a deep cavity can detach. Pack mortar firmly into the recess, in layers when necessary.
- Adding too much water or retempering mortar. A sloppy mix is harder to compact and may finish poorly. Follow the mix instructions and discard material that has begun to set.
- Working in unsuitable weather. Rapid drying, rain, and freezing conditions can interfere with curing. Delay the job if you cannot protect fresh mortar.
Tips
- Start with a small, inconspicuous patch to practise removal, packing, and joint finishing before tackling a visible area.
- Photograph the original joints and note their profile before work begins; use that as a guide while tooling.
- Keep the pointing trowel clean. Dried crumbs can drag across the joint and leave an uneven finish.
- Work from the top of a small repair area downward where practical, so debris is less likely to fall onto finished joints.
- Mix batches consistently and clean tools before mortar hardens. Consistent water and mixing help keep colour and workability more uniform.
- Protect nearby plants and surfaces from mortar dust and wash water, and collect debris rather than letting it enter drains.
Troubleshooting
The mortar will not stay in the joint: The recess may be dusty, too dry, too wet, or poorly packed, or the mix may be too loose. Remove material that is still workable, clean the joint, adjust dampening, and mix a firmer batch according to its instructions. Do not simply smear mortar over the face.
The joint looks hollow or cracks as it dries: A void may have been left behind, or the mortar may have dried too quickly. If the repair is still fresh and removable, take out the defective section and repack it properly. If it has hardened, avoid patching over a crack without finding its cause; remove failed material and redo the affected joint only when conditions are suitable.
Brick edges chip during removal: Stop hammering. Use lighter blows, a narrower chisel, and a better angle, or leave sound mortar in place. Extensive chipping means hand removal is not appropriate for that section without expert help.
The mortar smears or stains the brick: It may have been too wet or cleaned too early. Let it firm before brushing gently. Do not use acids or aggressive cleaners without confirming they are safe for the brick and mortar; they can cause lasting damage.
The finished mortar is a different colour: Mortar colour changes with ingredients, water content, joint profile, and drying conditions. Allow it to cure before judging the final appearance. For a visible mismatch, consult a mason rather than applying a surface coating that traps moisture.
Fresh joints are exposed to bad weather: Cover them promptly with breathable protection, without pressing it onto the mortar. If rain has washed out or frost has damaged the work, let conditions stabilise and have the affected section assessed before repairing it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I repoint brick using only hand tools?
Yes, for a small area with sound bricks and accessible joints. Hand tools allow controlled removal, but the work is slower and demanding. Widespread deterioration, high walls, or fragile masonry may call for a professional.
How deep should I remove the old mortar?
Remove failed material back to sound mortar and leave enough clean recess for the replacement to bond and be compacted. There is no single depth that suits every joint; avoid cutting into brick and follow the mortar system’s guidance.
Can I use the same mortar for every brick wall?
No. Mortar must be compatible with the brick and existing construction. Older or soft brick often needs a more forgiving mortar than modern hard masonry. Seek advice if the original mix is uncertain.
Do I need to wet the brick before pointing?
Often, light dampening helps prevent very absorbent masonry from drawing water out of fresh mortar too quickly. Avoid soaking the wall, and follow the chosen mortar’s instructions and the conditions on site.
Can I repoint in rain or cold weather?
It is best to postpone work when rain can wash fresh mortar away or when freezing conditions could damage it. The suitable temperature and protection requirements depend on the mortar; check its instructions and make sure the work can be protected throughout curing.
When should I hire a professional?
Get an assessment for bulging or leaning walls, major cracks, loose bricks, extensive failure, difficult access, or historic masonry. A professional can diagnose movement and moisture problems and help select a compatible repair mortar.