Repairing brick steps and a concrete landing can restore a firm, even route to your door and help keep loose masonry and crumbling concrete from getting worse. First identify why the damage occurred, then choose a repair suited to its size; if the steps move, the landing is badly cracked, or the structure is settling, get a qualified masonry or concrete professional to assess it before using the stairs.
What You’ll Need
- Work gloves, safety glasses, sturdy shoes, and a dust mask suitable for the work and product instructions.
- Stiff brush, broom, and a shop vacuum or other way to remove dust.
- Cold chisel and masonry hammer, or a suitable small demolition tool, for removing loose mortar and concrete.
- Pointing trowel, masonry trowel, and a margin trowel.
- Premixed or bagged mortar appropriate for the brick and its exposure, and a separate concrete repair material suitable for the landing. Read each label; mortar and concrete patch are not interchangeable.
- Clean water, mixing tub, and a measuring container for following the product’s stated water ratio.
- Level, straightedge, and a small brush or sponge.
- Plastic sheeting or another way to protect the repair from rain, direct sun, and foot traffic while it cures.
Check local requirements before altering a stair that is part of an exit route, and follow the product label for mixing, temperature limits, surface preparation, and curing. Keep people off the steps during the repair and curing period.
Step-by-Step
- Inspect the whole assembly. Look at every tread, riser, joint, and the landing edge. Note loose bricks, missing mortar, crumbling concrete, cracks, water stains, and whether any part rocks or has shifted. Check that water can drain away rather than collect beside the steps. A small area of deteriorated pointing is different from a stair that is moving as a unit.
- Decide whether a repair is appropriate. Do not simply fill a wide or changing crack, rebuild a step over a soft base, or glue a loose brick in place if the surrounding masonry is failing. If the landing has sunk, a tread is detached, several bricks have shifted, or the stair has a pronounced tilt, stop and arrange a professional assessment. A surface patch cannot correct a failing foundation or ongoing movement.
- Make the area safe and dry. Block access to the stairs from both ends if possible. Remove mats, pots, and other obstacles. Wait for suitable weather and a dry working surface, while avoiding conditions outside the repair material’s stated limits. Protect nearby doors, walls, and plants from debris and splashes.
- Remove failed mortar around brickwork. Use a chisel carefully to rake out loose or powdery mortar to sound material. Work along the joint rather than levering against the brick edges. Remove loose fragments and brush out dust. If a brick is cracked, badly spalled, or loose because the base beneath it has failed, repointing alone is not enough; the brick and its support need proper repair.
- Prepare a loose brick only if its support is sound. Carefully remove the brick and scrape old mortar from the brick and its seat without damaging sound neighboring masonry. Brush away debris. If the seat is broken or the brick cannot be removed without destabilizing the step, stop rather than forcing it. A professional can determine whether rebuilding is needed.
- Prepare the concrete landing. Chip away concrete that is loose, hollow, or crumbling until the remaining edges are firm. Avoid making a thin feather edge unless the selected repair product specifically allows it; thin patches commonly lose their bond. Brush and vacuum dust, and clean away oil, paint, sealers, and other bond-breaking material using a method allowed by the product instructions. Do not cover a crack that continues to move or indicates settlement.
- Condition the repair surfaces. Follow the mortar or patch instructions for dampening, priming, or applying a bonding agent. Some products require a damp surface without standing water; others specify a different preparation. Do not assume that one preparation works for both the brick joints and concrete patch. Keep the materials separate and use only compatible products.
- Mix small batches. Measure water as directed and add it in the specified manner. Mix until the material is workable and consistent, without adding extra water to make it easier to spread. Prepare only an amount that can be placed within the product’s working time. Do not try to revive material that has started to stiffen by adding water.
- Reset a sound, removable brick if needed. Apply the specified mortar to the prepared seat and place the brick in its original position. Press it into the bed, check that its face aligns with adjacent brick, and confirm that the tread remains even with a straightedge. Fill the surrounding joints completely. Remove excess mortar carefully without smearing it across the brick face.
- Repoint the remaining brick joints. Press mortar firmly into each prepared joint with a pointing trowel, filling it rather than just coating the opening. Pack deeper joints in layers if the mortar instructions call for it. Shape the joint to match the existing profile once the mortar is firm enough to hold its shape. Brush off crumbs and clean the brick as directed; aggressive washing can pull fresh mortar out of the joints.
- Place the concrete repair. Apply the concrete patch to the prepared landing, pressing it into the repair area so there are no visible gaps. Build it to meet the surrounding surface, then strike it level with a straightedge. Match the landing’s existing drainage slope; do not create a low spot that holds water or a raised lip that becomes a trip hazard. Finish the surface with the texture recommended for outdoor footing.
- Protect and cure the repairs. Shield fresh work from rain, strong sun, drying wind, freezing conditions, and foot traffic as specified by the product maker. Keep any curing cover from touching or damaging a newly finished surface. Mortar and concrete repair materials do not all cure on the same schedule, so use the stated waiting period for each material before removing protection or using the stairs.
- Check the finished work before reopening the steps. Once the specified cure period has passed, inspect the joints and patch for gaps, loose edges, or an uneven surface. Confirm that no brick rocks and that water can drain away. If the repair has pulled away or the stair still moves, keep the route closed and get professional advice rather than adding another surface layer.
Common Mistakes
- Using the wrong material: Mortar is for masonry joints and setting brick; concrete patch is made for concrete repair. Choose materials for the actual substrate and outdoor exposure.
- Leaving weak material underneath: A patch placed over dusty, loose, or crumbling material may detach. Remove failed material first, but stop before damaging sound brick or undermining a step.
- Using a surface smear for deep damage: A thin coating may not bond or last. Follow the product’s permitted repair depth and layer instructions.
- Adding too much water: A soupy mix is harder to control and may not perform as intended. Measure and mix according to the label.
- Ignoring drainage and movement: Filling a crack without addressing water entry or settlement treats a symptom, not the cause. Watch for recurring cracks and displacement.
- Opening the stairs too soon: Fresh repair material needs protection and curing time. Follow the label rather than relying on a surface that merely feels dry.
Tips
- Take clear photos before removing material so you can compare alignment and identify whether movement returns.
- Use a straightedge across the tread and landing to spot abrupt changes in height as you work.
- Test your joint finish on a small, inconspicuous area if you are matching existing mortar profiles or brick appearance.
- Keep separate tools or clean them between mortar and concrete products, especially before material hardens.
- Plan the work so the repaired route remains closed until every material has reached its stated readiness for foot traffic.
- Afterward, keep gutters and nearby drainage paths clear so runoff does not repeatedly soak the steps.
Troubleshooting
The mortar will not stay in the joint. The joint may still contain dust or loose material, the surface may be prepared incorrectly, or the mix may be too wet or too dry. Stop, remove material that has not bonded, and recheck the product directions for joint depth, surface condition, and mixing. Do not simply press a thin cover over the opening.
The concrete patch pulls away at the edge. A weak edge, dust, contamination, unsuitable patch depth, or incorrect surface conditioning can prevent a bond. Remove the detached patch to firm material and review the product’s preparation requirements. If the whole landing is moving, a new patch is unlikely to solve the problem.
The repair cracks as it cures. Small surface defects can have several causes, including rapid drying, an overly wet mix, or a layer outside the product’s allowed thickness. Protect the repair and check the instructions. If the crack is wide, returns, or crosses a moving step, stop using the area if it is unsafe and ask a professional to assess the cause.
A brick still rocks after resetting. The bed may not support it evenly, or the underlying step may be unstable. Do not wedge loose fragments into the joint or keep adding mortar around the face. Remove the brick only if it can be done safely and the seat is sound; otherwise, have the step assessed.
The repair looks uneven or holds water. A high edge can trip someone, while a depression can collect water and contribute to further damage. If the material is still workable, correct the contour as directed. Once it has hardened, do not grind or coat it without checking the repair product and the condition of the surrounding structure.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use mortar to repair the concrete landing?
Usually, mortar intended for brick joints is not the right material for a concrete surface repair. Select a concrete repair product that is suitable for the landing and the depth and exposure of the damage.
Can I repair a loose brick without removing it?
Repointing may help when the brick is stable and only the surrounding joint has deteriorated. If the brick moves, the joint alone cannot provide a reliable repair; the brick and its supporting bed need attention.
Do I need to replace the whole landing if it is cracked?
Not necessarily. A stable, limited surface defect may be repairable, but a crack associated with settlement, movement, separation, or repeated water entry needs assessment before patching. The crack’s cause matters more than its appearance alone.
How long should I wait before using the stairs?
Use the waiting time stated on the specific repair material’s label. Conditions and products vary, and a surface that feels dry may not yet be ready for foot traffic.
Can I do this repair in cold or wet weather?
Only if the product instructions allow the conditions and you can protect the work as directed. Rain, freezing conditions, direct sun, and drying wind can interfere with placement or curing, so postpone the job when conditions fall outside the stated limits.
When should I call a professional?
Get an assessment when steps or the landing have shifted, several bricks are loose, concrete is breaking away deeply, cracks keep returning, or the repair would affect a safe route into or out of the building. Structural movement requires more than cosmetic patching.