Aglaonema, often called Chinese evergreen, is a tropical foliage plant grown for its patterned leaves and tolerance of indoor conditions. To grow one well, give it warm temperatures, bright indirect light, a pot with drainage, and soil that is allowed to partly dry between waterings.
Before you begin, check the plant for pests and make sure its pot has drainage holes. Aglaonema sap can irritate skin, and the plant is harmful if chewed; keep it away from children and pets, and wash your hands after handling damaged leaves or roots.
What You’ll Need
- A healthy aglaonema plant, or a stem cutting if you plan to propagate one
- A pot with drainage holes, only slightly larger than the root ball
- Well-draining indoor potting mix; a mix that holds some moisture but does not stay soggy is suitable
- A saucer or tray to catch excess water
- Clean scissors or pruning shears for removing damaged leaves or taking a cutting
- A watering can or other container for watering slowly
- Optional: gloves, a clean propagation jar, and a balanced houseplant fertilizer
Step-by-Step
- Choose a healthy plant. Look for firm stems and leaves without widespread yellowing, mushiness, webbing, or clusters of small insects. A few older leaves may naturally fade, but extensive damage can indicate poor care or pests. Inspect both sides of the leaves and the stem joints before bringing a plant home. If you already have one, isolate it from other houseplants for a short period while you watch for pests.
- Pick a suitable location. Place the plant where it receives bright, indirect light, such as near a window with a sheer curtain or set back from a bright window. Many aglaonemas tolerate lower light, but growth may become slower and patterned leaves can lose some of their vividness. Avoid prolonged direct sun, which can scorch foliage. Turn the pot occasionally if the plant leans toward the light.
- Use a pot that drains. Choose a container with open drainage holes. A decorative outer pot is fine if you remove the inner pot for watering or empty collected water afterward. Select a container only a little wider than the root ball. An oversized pot holds more unused damp soil, which can remain wet around the roots for too long.
- Set up the soil and plant. Use a loose, well-draining potting mix intended for indoor plants. If the current soil is dense and stays wet, replace it with a more open mix rather than packing fresh soil tightly around the roots. Set the plant at the same depth it was growing before; burying the stem base can encourage rot. Fill around the roots gently, leaving a little room at the top for watering.
- Water thoroughly, then let excess drain. Water over the soil until it is evenly moistened and water runs from the drainage holes. Empty the saucer or outer pot so the plant does not sit in water. Do not follow a rigid calendar: check the soil first, because drying speed changes with light, warmth, pot size, and season.
- Check moisture before each watering. Press a finger into the top layer of soil. When the surface has begun to dry, check slightly deeper; water when the upper part of the mix feels dry while the root area is not bone-dry. If it still feels damp, wait and check again later. The goal is lightly moist soil with air around the roots, not constant wetness or prolonged drought.
- Keep conditions comfortably warm. Aglaonema is a tropical plant and does best in a warm indoor room without cold drafts. Keep it away from cold windows in winter, air-conditioning outlets, and strong heating vents. Ordinary household humidity is often adequate, though very dry air can cause brown leaf edges. If needed, group plants together or use a room humidifier; avoid leaving the pot in standing water to raise humidity.
- Feed sparingly during active growth. If the plant is growing, apply a balanced fertilizer formulated for houseplants according to its label. Use it only on moist soil and avoid feeding a plant that is stressed, newly repotted, or not actively growing. Too much fertilizer can damage roots and leave mineral residue in the soil. In periods of slow growth, reduce or pause feeding.
- Keep foliage clean and remove damaged leaves. Wipe dust from leaves with a damp cloth so the foliage stays clean and easy to inspect. Use clean scissors to remove fully yellow, brown, or damaged leaves near their base. Do not remove healthy leaves simply to shape the plant; they help it gather light. Clean tools after use, especially if you are cutting away diseased tissue.
- Repot when the plant needs more room. Repot if roots crowd the drainage holes, the root ball dries unusually quickly, or growth is constrained. Move it into a pot only slightly larger, refresh the mix, and keep the plant at its former depth. After repotting, water thoroughly and let it drain. Avoid repeatedly disturbing the roots when the plant is growing well.
Common Mistakes
- Watering on a fixed schedule: Soil dries at different rates in different homes. Check it before watering rather than assuming the same interval always applies.
- Leaving the pot in a full saucer: Persistent standing water deprives roots of air and can lead to rot. Drain the saucer after watering.
- Using a pot without drainage: Water can collect at the bottom even when the surface looks dry. Use a pot with holes, or keep the plant in a drainable nursery pot inside a decorative container.
- Putting the plant in harsh direct sun: Strong sun through glass can bleach or scorch leaves. Move it to bright filtered light, and adjust its position gradually.
- Overfeeding: Fertilizer is not a remedy for poor light, damaged roots, or excess water. Follow the product label and feed only when the plant is growing.
- Repotting into a much larger container: Extra soil can stay damp longer than the roots can use it. Increase pot size modestly when repotting.
Tips
- Let the plant’s leaves and soil guide care. Drooping can have several causes, so check moisture before adding water.
- Keep a simple note of when you water and what the soil felt like. This can help you learn how quickly the plant dries in its particular spot.
- Rotate the pot now and then for more even growth, but avoid moving the plant repeatedly between very different light conditions.
- When moving an aglaonema to a brighter position, do so gradually. A sudden change to strong light can damage leaves that developed in shade.
- Inspect leaf undersides and stem joints while wiping away dust. Early pest discovery makes it easier to separate the plant and respond.
- Propagate a healthy plant by dividing it at repotting if it has separate rooted shoots. Each division needs roots and a growing point; handle the sap carefully.
Troubleshooting
Yellow leaves: First check whether the soil is staying wet. If it is, pause watering and confirm that the pot drains freely. If the soil is dry, water thoroughly and drain the pot. A single older leaf turning yellow can be part of normal aging; widespread yellowing calls for a closer check of roots, light, and recent care.
Brown, crispy edges: Possible causes include letting the mix dry too far, very dry indoor air, or a buildup of fertilizer salts. Check the root-zone moisture, keep the plant away from hot or cold drafts, and review recent feeding. Remove badly damaged leaves if desired, but correcting the growing conditions is more important than trimming symptoms.
Soft stems or a sour smell from the soil: These can point to overly wet soil or root problems. Remove the plant from its pot and inspect the roots. Healthy roots are generally firm; cut away soft, rotten portions with clean tools, then repot remaining healthy growth in fresh, well-draining mix and a clean pot with drainage. Water carefully afterward.
Drooping leaves: Check the soil rather than guessing. Very dry soil may need a thorough watering; wet soil means more water could make the problem worse. Also look for cold drafts, recent changes in location, or damaged roots. Correct one likely cause at a time and watch for improvement.
Faded or stretched growth: The plant may not be receiving enough light. Move it closer to bright indirect light, making the change gradual. If leaves develop pale or scorched patches, reduce direct sun instead.
Specks, sticky residue, or fine webbing: Inspect the plant closely for pests. Separate it from other plants, rinse or wipe foliage where appropriate, and use a treatment labeled for indoor plants according to its instructions. Recheck the plant afterward, since a single cleaning may not remove every pest stage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can aglaonema grow in low light?
It can tolerate lower light than many houseplants, but growth is usually slower and colorful patterns may be less pronounced. Bright, indirect light is a better target. Low light also means soil dries more slowly, so check moisture before watering.
How often should I water an aglaonema?
There is no dependable schedule for every home. Water when the upper part of the potting mix has dried, then let excess water drain. Check more often in bright, warm conditions and less often when light or growth is low.
Can I grow aglaonema from a leaf cutting?
A leaf alone generally will not make a new plant because it lacks a stem growing point. Propagation is more reliable by dividing rooted shoots or using a stem cutting that includes a node. Keep cuttings warm and in suitable propagation conditions.
Does aglaonema need high humidity?
It usually adapts to ordinary indoor humidity. Very dry air may contribute to brown edges, but keeping the roots wet is not a safe substitute. Improve room humidity if needed while maintaining good drainage.
Is aglaonema safe for pets or children?
No. Chewing the plant can cause irritation because its tissues contain calcium oxalate crystals. Keep it out of reach, and contact an appropriate professional if a person or animal chews it or develops symptoms.
Why is my aglaonema not producing new leaves?
Growth can slow when light, warmth, or water conditions are unsuitable, and it may also slow during a resting period. Check that the plant is warm, receiving indirect light, and not sitting in soggy soil. Avoid adding extra fertilizer unless the plant is actively growing.